PALLARS JUSSÀ, RETORN ALS VINS D’ALTA QUALITAT. “QUI PERD ELS SEUS ORIGENS PER LA SEUA IDENTITAT”.

Xavier Ayala president de l’Associació Catalana de Sommeliers (ACS) analitza en el seu blog  diari d’un Sommelier  dos vins de la zona. Per un costat el celler de la Núria Bigorra (terrer del Pallars), jove enòloga enamorada de la seua feina i que transmet als seus vins tot el seu entusiasme, Per l’altre Raúl  Bobet (Castell d’Encus), mestre de mestres i pare dels nous vins d’alta qualitat al pallars.

Conca d’Orcau’14  i  Thalarn’13  

Article 06-03-2016

Article 28-02-2016

Conca d’Orcau’14

Introduint-nos en la subzona Pallars, trobem diferents zones i pobles on s’elaboren vins. La Conca de Tremp, la Conca d’Orcau, Sort i Talarn son l’eix vertebrador de la zona més nòrdica de Costers del Segre.
Avui anem fins a Figuerola d’Orcau, un petit nucli situat al Pallars Jussà. Amb poc més de 200 habitants sensats i dins de la població d’Isona. Allà hi trobem Terrer del Pallars, una de les darreres novetats de la subzona del Pallars.
Com deia en Raimon, qui perd els seus orígens perd la seva identitat, i tant és així que les dues referències que elabora el celler porten el nom de les dos conques de la zona, la Conca de Tremp i la Conca d’Orcau.
Un dels valors del món del vi, és situar en el mapa, la seva zona d’origen. Estar clar que parlem de vins fets al Pirineu de Lleida però saber on son les vinyes plantades només quant es diu el nom dels vins, és una molt bona manera de presentar-los.
De fet en aquestes dues zones, com en molts racons del Pirineu, en temps passats eren plens de vinya. A dia d’avui, és poden comptar amb les dues mans els racons plantats en aquestes terres altes.
Un blanc i un negre, son les propostes que elaboren, macabeu, cabernet sauvignon i merlot les varietats que a mes de 650 metres respiren aire pur i creixen sobre terrenys calcaris. El seu blanc s’envelleix amb bótes d’acàcia. Un material que amb l’arribada del roure és va perdre per complert a casa nostra i tot Catalunya.
El color groc intens que veiem en el macabeu, ens indica el seu pas per bóta. En copa és presenta dens, amb volum. Aromàticament, el vi te un gran eix central on podem percebre les flaires a fruita blanca, típiques d’aquest tipus de raïm. Pera d’estiu (Castell) i la poma golden, però també flors com el gessamí, l’espígol i la sàlvia, son els aromes principals. Notes especiades, com el pebre blanc i també les lleugerament fumades, son presents derivades d’aquesta fusta noble on reposa el vi durant sis mesos.
D’entrada delicada però creixent en boca i amb sensacions de vellut com si toquéssim un guant de pell de préssec amb la llengua. Destaca la seva textura per el treball de mares que es fa en el celler.
Celler: Terrer del Pallars
Zona: DO Costers del Segre. Subzona Pallars
Varietat: macabeu
Tipus de vi: Vi blanc amb bóta.
Grau: 13’5%
Preu: 13’75€

Thalarn’13

Un dels objectius que des de sempre ha volgut aquest espai, és presentar-vos diferents propostes del món vitivinícola català. Així com també fer-ho des d’una vessant pedagògica però sobretot entenedora. Es per aquest motiu que durant les següents setmanes us presentarem les diferents propostes que s’elaboren en l’actualitat a la subzona Pallars dins de la DO Costers del Segre.
El Pallars és la zona més alta, en algunes ocasions les vinyes arriben gairebé fins als 2000m d’alçada.  En l’actualitat hi trobem vuit cellers.
Castell d’Encús, és un dels cellers de referència no només a la subzona del Pallars ni a la denominació d’origen Costers del Segre, si no que s’ha fet un nom internacional en el món del vi. I és que des de l’any 2001, que en Raúl Bobet, artífex del seu projecte personal ha fet canviar la percepció sobre la qualitat que poden arribar a tenir els vins d’alçada.
Amb amplíssim recorregut professional a les seves espatlles i sobretot la recerca constant per la perfecció i millora dels seus vins, fan que avui dia parlar de ell és parlar de valor segur. Aquest reconeixement li arriba desprès d’anys i anys de treball en grans cases de les millors famílies del panorama vitivinícola mundial.
Una de les grans aportacions que sempre recordarem d’aquest incansable home del vi, és la fermentació a la pedra. Aquesta pràctica, recrea la manera d’elaborar vins  com és feia en aquest indret en l’època medieval, ja que de manera parcial o total, hi han un bon nombre de varietats de les 24 hectàrees  de vinyes que probe que passen per la pedra.
Actualment el celler elabora tot tipus de vins, de tots colors, amb tot tipus de materials, també d’escumosos, de dolços i secs. Una de les especialitats de la casa son les fermentacions en cubs de pedra natural. Val la pena el viatge al celler per veure-ho.
Avui us presentem el vi que porta el nom del poble on hi ha les vinyes. Un syrah d’aromes profunds on les fruites negres i vermelles madures estan a la ordre del dia (mores, nadius, maduixes, cireres i gerds) també podem percebre subtils flaires d’espècies com la vainilla i el clau. És delicat, elegant i amb recorregut. Sens dubte un dels millors vins de casa nostra i de Catalunya.
Celler: Castell d’Encús
Zona: DO Costers del Segre. Subzona Pallars
Varietat: Syrah
Tipus de vi: Vi negre de mig cos
Grau: 14 %
Preu: 32,50 €
 Xavier Ayala president de l’Associació Catalana de Sommeliers (ACS)
Xavier Ayala president de l’Associació Catalana de Sommeliers (ACS)

 

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